Jean-Benoît Goulabert

MIND READING
What a revelation to meet Jean-Benoît Goulabert again in the Jura this year. And still with the lovely Léa and her husband Gabriel of the fantastic restaurant Autour de l'Atre in Grusse. In 2012, at Giulio Armani's winery in Italy, we first met Jean-Benoît. I believe my soul knew something my head was not yet aware of. The thread that sometimes runs between people makes this planet energetic, unique, and unpredictable. These cosmic connections to the universe, while perhaps a bit esoteric, are a testament to the profound impact of our meeting. A physical merging took place. The energy flowed into each other, and we could feel our emotions and even read our thoughts.

FORBIDDEN GRAPES
What were we doing there in the Jura? We were tasting forbidden grapes that have been banned since 1935. These grapes, like Noah, Clinton, and Isabelle, were once a part of our grandparents' daily lives, evoking a sense of nostalgia and historical significance. The true story of wrong regulations, the banishment of grape varieties, banned wines, accused of all evils, lousy taste and misleading health complaints in people. A 1956 decree (see photo) forced the grubbing up of these vines. By 1955, France produced too much wine, so the vineyards had to be restructured or industrialized. Peasant production had to give way to AOCs. Moreover, the US industry developed pesticides after World War II, and large purchases allowed France to pay off its war debt without knowing the considerable damage. Fortunately, despite the highly hostile French legislation and lousy reputation, winemakers were convinced of their values and opposed all taboos.

HYBRID GRAPE VARIETIES
Jean-Benoît has chosen to revisit old varieties of yesteryear, specific to an area, but also to tame new resistant varieties that are less prone to disease and meet tomorrow's climatic challenges. The idea is not to replace Chardonnay tomorrow, for example, but to experiment and find diversity in a context where diseases and pesticides are increasingly problematic. In some areas, it gets wetter, with a higher risk of diseases like mildew; in others, it gets drier. The traditionally known and very locally determined grapes do not like this very much. To ensure wine quality in the future, too, traditions have to go overboard. Hybrid grape varieties, in many cases, offer an advantage in case of disease. They are more resistant to mildew and other pesky pests, and are thus a promising avenue for the future of winemaking.

REVEAL
'In our little corner of Lozère in the far north of the Cevennes, viticulture has long been neglected because it could not be mechanized,' Jean-Benoît tells us while tasting. "Moreover, there was no money for viticulture. People preferred to leave. My grandfather went to the mine because compared to the mountains, it was a better life there. Now, techniques have changed everything.
On the one hand, the material, but especially the resurgence of disease-resistant vine varieties, the hybrids, has radically changed the situation. With hybrids' ins and outs, we were already familiar with hybrid grapes everywhere, but to pick out the gems, you have to keep tasting and searching. What a joy that forbidden grapes can impress and touch you so deeply

PARIS AND SUITS
Jean-Benoît was born on 27 March 1979. Dad was from Lozère, Maman from Vaucluse. They made their money restoring old buildings. Dad is also a deserving artist who paints unique wine labels. He grew up between the countryside and the city. During the week, he went to a school in the big city, and on weekends and holidays, he was at home with his parents. He was a gifted, rebellious boy who struggled to fit in at school. The great-grandson of a wine farmer, grandson of a miner and son of an architect, a great career in finance lay ahead of him. He kept up the demanding work for ten years before finally calling it quits (at a renowned Bank in Paris). He regrets nothing, as those very years in Paris shaped him. He wanted to set up a wine company but soon found out he preferred to do his own thing: make the purest and most authentic wines without concessions and compromises—a considerable challenge. You experience good flow when you do challenging things close to your heart. Talk about passion, daring and enthusiasm. His sporting past (judo and triathlon) has undoubtedly helped him. Suits and other disguises, he has hung up the willows. He was pursuing a BTS in Biological Viticulture and Oenology, taking courses at the Faculty of Science in Montpellier, and studying at Superagro.

FRANC DE PIED
Jean-Benoît had already started planting 'franc de pied' old varieties in 2015, which he tirelessly observes and follows. Early varieties like Baco Blanc, Léon Millot, Marechal Foch, Clinton and Isabelle, and recent ones like Souvignier Gris, Artaban and Floréal. He has found that the resistant grape varieties are very happy during vinification because, without treatments, there are many indigenous yeasts, which ferment fully at 12 C with plenty of must and full of nitrogen but occasionally defy the limits of classical oenology with a PH value of 2.9 to 3. Like his grandfather, he exclusively uses chestnut wood trellises (treille) for his grapes. Not only because it is a tradition but also because it is the most relevant way of working. No tractor and no treatments, no ploughing because the varieties are vigorous enough, and no harvesting machine because harvesting is done manually. Although trellising is challenging to set up, Jean-Benoît finds satisfaction in working with the chainsaw in winter. To manage the grass, he has a small flock of local rustic sheep, the raioles, running year-round and grazing under the trellises.

MASTERWORKS
The results of Jean-Benoît's wines are nothing short of stunning. They are masterpieces. Excellent quality, flawless with confusing, even divisive characteristics. Generous aromas with wild flavours. It is slightly intoxicating, with nuances of wild forest strawberry, blackcurrant, candied rhubarb or overripe kiwi, leather, maple syrup and honey. All white wines undergo a short or slightly more extended maceration, creating sublime orange wines. Notable is the low alcohol content, around 11/12%. A crazy twist with the wines of Jean-Yves Péron, Yannick Meckert and Romain Verger is quickly made. These unique characteristics of Jean-Benoît's wines will surely intrigue and excite any wine enthusiast.

We follow Jean-Benoît with our hearts. Feel his resistance, responsibility, freedom, and love of wine. He wants to defend nature's interests and let his grapes shine without chemical additives. He does not know lousy grape varieties, but he does know bad winemakers. The last word has not yet been said, but we shout bravo Jean-Benoît from the heart. Un grand merci!