Mega debut
THE PERFECT RIESLING
When Jakob Tennstedt released the 2017 Sterntaucher in 2019, social media was immediately full of praise. In a few weeks, all 700 bottles were sold, but if there had been a million bottles, hundreds of bottles of this debut would have crossed the counter every five seconds. You can only dream of that. Sterntaucher was number one everywhere. It was a mega debut, a great wine that exceeded all expectations, the perfect Riesling made in a style elevated above all others. Clean juice, as a wine, is sometimes known. Will Jakob Tennstedt's Rieslings go down in history?
CALL OF THE MOSELLE
Jakob Tennstedt's winemaking journey is a testament to his passion and dedication. Born in 1986 in Berlin, he honed his skills in star gastronomy and exclusive family-run restaurants. His love for wine was evident during his studies in Geisenheim and Udine and further nurtured during internships in the Wachau. The call of the Moselle was irresistible, and Jakob returned to Berlin to embark on his winemaking adventure, a journey that is as unique as the wines he crafts.
EVERYTHING CLICKS
His vineyards in Traben-Trabach are impressive, but the wines are even more amazing. In terms of texture, they are complete and highly balanced with exciting acidity intertwined with crystalline fruit and spicy drippings with minerals, dominating the extra saline background while giving a lifting impression full of weight. Everything is right. It's easy to get lost in the brilliant typicity of this Riesling with its challenging nose of baked apple, Mirabelle pie, whipped cream, earthy spices and fresh citrusy elements, which rewards your palate with subtly spicy and slightly oxidising with wonderful flavours of pear and Reine Claude. You find the extreme finesse and controlled beauty this wine displays in great wines where the aesthetics may differ, but the essence is the same. Beyond the extraordinary quality, there is something deeper and more critical, something intangible, with conviction and authenticity, which I find very moving.
GREAT WHITE BURGUNDY
In 2024, Jakob cultivates 1.4 hectares and maybe one day 2 hectares, but that's all. Almost all the vines are 50 to 100 years old, and about half are not grafted. To be precise, Jakob cultivates 0.7 hectares in the Hühnerberg and grows 'Waldportier' in this vineyard. In Ungsberg, he grows 'Musari' on an old terraced higher plot of 0.5 hectares and 'Valke' from a lower plot. Jakob also has 0.2 hectares in Schlossberg, where 'Mauerfuchs' is made. Finally, to be complete, there is a small plot called 'Perlmutt' in the cool Taubenhaus vineyard, which Jakob gave up after the 2020 harvest because it was just too much work. It's a shame, though, because Perlmut 2020, in particular, has the class of a great white Burgundy.
HEALTHY BOTRYTIS
Jakob picks exclusively by taste and feel and does not take measurements at harvest time. Although his wines ferment until they are completely dry, he allows all healthy botrytis in his selections which is quite unusual. Botrytis, also known as 'noble rot ', is a type of fungus that can affect grapes. While it can be detrimental to some wines, in the case of Jakob's wines, it adds a unique and desirable flavour profile. Fermentations take place in large old barrels for several months to more than a year. Jakob then tastes the wine and fills the barrel continuously until he thinks it is ready to bottle, a decision again made by feeling and intuition. A wine can spend over two years in the barrel before it is bottled unclarified, unfiltered and without sulphur.
MOUNTAIN GOATS
Jakob has grown organically and biodynamically from the beginning, which is crucial. Organic certification will be in place from the 2022 vintage. He prefers to think of his vineyards as healthy gardens. Ungsberg ( Musari) has many birch branches and natural tree trunks to guide the vines instead of wooden or steel stakes. Jakob welcomes all kinds of flowers, wild grasses, insects, butterflies and animals into the vineyards. Only hand-built electric wire fences interrupt the natural flow from the forest to the vineyard. Wild boar and deer are not welcome, but the white and black mountain goats like nothing better than grazing and taking a lot of work away from Jacob.
STILL
The steep vineyards Jakob cultivates are in a deep side valley behind Traben-Trarbach. Apart from a quiet road running through the valley and a few scattered houses and buildings, there is only a forest. When the sun shines, this place looks pretty idyllic, but it can be ominous and even dangerous with storms and winds. The silence brings the emotional feeling that makes these vineyards so unique. Jakob embraces this serenity and likes to be alone in his own path. His wines do not try to shock you and are not loud, and the labels, too, far from being embellished, are understated and simple. It is remarkable how deeply individual Jakob and his wines are.
LANDWEIN DER MOSEL
With their unfiltered and unclarified nature, Jakob's wines do not fit the Mosel wine authorities' taste tests. As a result, they are bottled as 'Landwein der Mosel' without the privilege of naming the village or vineyard. This label, however, retains the quality and uniqueness of Jakob's wines. Instead, it serves as a testament to his innovative approach and his commitment to producing wines that are true to their origin. The 'Landwein der Mosel' label signifies a departure from traditional winemaking practices, allowing Jakob to focus on the unique characteristics of his wines. Jakob found a beautiful solution to this challenge. He names his wines after birds or insects that seem to embody the essence of the vineyard. It's not revolutionary or shocking, but a poetic and subtle approach we can all appreciate.
MARLENE
Jakob's journey as a winemaker is not just a story of perseverance, hard work, and innovation. It's a deeply personal story of family, love, and resilience. With the unwavering support of his wife and the inspiration he draws from his daughter Marlene, each step of his journey becomes more robust and more resilient. It's a privilege to share Jakob Tennstedt's wines with our wine lovers, knowing that each bottle carries a piece of this beautiful, personal story, inviting you to join it.
